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Buying a car - whether it’s new, from a used car dealer or a private seller – is one of the most expensive things you will ever buy, next to buying a home.
Buying a used car is fraught with pitfalls, but if you do your research it can also save you thousands of pounds.
The main problems with used cars are:
When buying a used car you may also want to shop around for car insurance before you go ahead and buy it; a hefty insurance bill could wipe out any savings you hope to make.
A study by the Office of Fair Trading found consumers buying a used car lose an average of £425 each – a total of £85m a year – through having to fix unresolved faults that are the dealers' obligation to correct.
A used car dealer is a business specialising in selling cars.
When buying from a dealer look for:
This is one of the riskiest ways of buying a used car.
Auctions don’t offer the same legal protection as buying from a dealer so make sure you know the auction house’s terms and conditions of business.
Wherever you buy your used car you will need to do some simple checks to reduce your chances of ending up with a car that’s being sold illegally or has had major repairs.
A private history check - also known as a ‘data check’ will cost up to £20.
A private history check will tell you:
You can get a car history check by searching online for websites that check vehicle details.
To do this you will need the following information:
You can go online and used the DVLA’s free online vehicle information checker
The information the DVLA holds should match the dealer’s/seller’s information.
Vehicles need regular MOT tests to make sure they are roadworthy you can check the MOT history of a car for free on Gov.uk.
If there are any gaps in the MOT history you may want to think twice about going ahead with any purchase. Remember though that a car might not have needed an MOT if it was unused or registered off road - statutory off road notification or SORN.
The car’s V5C registration document gives details of the registered keeper and all the car’s previous keepers.
When viewing a used car, look for its VIN (Vehicle Identification Number), which can usually be found at the base of the windscreen, under the bonnet, and stamped into the framework under the carpet by the driver’s seat.
Do your research by looking at price guides and comparing similar used cars for sale online and in car magazines.
Arrange car viewings for the day, and at the seller’s home if possible. Try not to go when it’s dark or raining as this can hide defects, such as dents and scratches.
Check beneath the car and under the bonnet for rust and any signs that the car’s been in an accident.
A simple inspection of a used car can help you pinpoint any obvious issues that means you should avoid buying it.
For example:
A ‘cut-and-shut’ is where pieces of two or more vehicles are welded together. This is illegal, but you need to watch out for this. You can check by pulling up carpets and trims for signs of hidden welds and look at paintwork that doesn’t match.
Always view the car in dry weather in the daylight. If you are buying from a private seller do so from their home so you have their address.
Make sure you are insured to drive the car, you may be insured via your own car insurance but check with your insurance company first.
If you don’t have insurance, a trader or private seller’s insurance might cover you - you’ll need to ask them.
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When agreeing on a price for your used car, don’t be afraid to haggle. The Money Advice Service has useful guidance on negotiating when buying a car.
Make sure you get the original (not a photocopy) of:
Never buy a car without the log book.
You’ll need to pay vehicle tax as soon as you buy the car as the seller cannot transfer any tax they have paid
The phrase ‘cooling-off period’ is the period of time you have to change your mind about something you’ve purchased from a distance.
Paying with cash is the cheapest way to pay for a used car as there are no extra fees or interest and often you get a discount for paying cash.
But if something goes wrong with the car you won’t have the protection that some credit arrangements offer
You might have protection if your card provider has a chargeback scheme. Paying via credit card means you can be flexible with making larger payments when you can afford them
You’ll get protection for goods costing between £100 and £30,000, even if you only paid for a small part of the cost on credit card (this is called ‘section 75’ protection)
But you have to pay interest, making this more expensive than paying with cash
Transferring the money using a bank transfer can be more preferable to carrying large amounts of cash.
You can pay with a CHAPS payment but there will be a charge – and your bank may have an upper limit on the amount you can transfer.
You will have to pay interest, but you might have extra protection because not only do you get protection through the dealer, you also get protection via the finance company.
This is another form of loan but means you don’t own the car until the last payment is made and the car can be repossessed if you can’t keep up the payments.
Used cars can be much cheaper to insure than brand new cars, but there are other things you can do to reduce the cost of your car insurance.
There are some things you can do that may reduce the cost of your car insurance:
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Having a black box fitted means your driver behaviour is monitored. The telematics box reports on how you accelerate, brake and negotiate sharp bends as well as what time your drive and on what sorts of roads.
The data is analysed, and if your scores are positive, your car insurance may be discounted over time.
If you drive fewer miles in a year this could result in a lower car insurance premium.
Parking in a private driveway or garage can also attract a discount. Car insurers may take into account where you park, depending where you live.
If your driveway is cluttered with cars, you may want to consider a multi car insurance policy
The lower the value of the car and the cheaper it is to repair, the less car insurance you may have to pay.
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